Washer Won’t Spin or Agitate: What Typically Fails and How to Fix?

A washing machine drains by pumping used water out of the drum, through a drain hose, and into your home’s plumbing.

If anything in that path is blocked—or if the pump or a safety sensor fails—water may stay in the tub after the cycle ends. This can happen in both top-load and front-load washers. Most of the time, the cause is simple: a clogged filter, a kinked hose, or a small blockage.

In fact, you can solve about 90% of these problems with a little DIY know-how. 

This guide explains what’s the cause of the washer won’t drain and how to get your washer draining again.

What are the Signs of a Washer Drainage Problem?

Sometimes the signs are obvious, like water sitting in the drum after the cycle ends. But other symptoms are more subtle. You might notice:

• Sopping wet clothes: The machine finishes, but your garments are still heavy with water.

• Strange noises: You may hear gurgling sounds or a loud humming during the drain phase.

• Mid-cycle stops: The washer simply stops working before it gets to the spin cycle.

• Error codes: Modern machines will show you errors with letters and numbers like "OE," "5E," or "F21" to tell you something is wrong.

• Bad smells: If water sits too long, you might notice a musty odor in your washer (or even a burning smell if the pump is straining).

Washer Machine Errors That Signal Drainage Issues

Washing machines use error codes to tell you where it hurts. While every brand is different, here are the common ones for drainage:

• Samsung: Look for "5E" or "5C".

• LG: You will see "OE".

• Whirlpool: Usually flashes "F21" or "F02".

• Bosch: Uses "E18" or "F18".

• Miele: Displays "F11".

If you see these error codes in your washer, you can start by fixing the drainage issue by yourself by following the below steps:

The Most Common Causes of Washing Machine Drainage Failure

Understanding the "why" is the first step to the "how." Here are the main causes of washing machine won’t drain:

1. The Clogged Pump Filter

This is the number one cause of drainage issues, responsible for roughly 60% of cases. The filter is there to catch small items like coins, buttons, hairpins, and lint before they reach the pump. Over time, these items build up and block the flow of water.

2. Blocked or Kinked Drain Hose

The drain hose is the pipe that carries dirty water out of the machine. If it is bent, twisted, or crushed against the wall, the water cannot escape. Sometimes, small items like socks or heavy lint buildup can also clog the inside of the hose.

3. "Suds Lock" from Too Much Soap

Using too much detergent, or the wrong kind, is a common mistake. High-efficiency (HE) machines need very little soap. If you use too much, it creates an overflow of bubbly suds that can get into the pipes and stop the pump from working properly.

4. Unbalanced Loads

If you wash a single heavy item, like a rug or a large blanket, it can clump to one side of the drum. When the machine detects this imbalance, it may lower the spin speed or stop entirely to prevent damage. This leaves your clothes soaking wet.

5. Mechanical and Electrical Faults

If the filters and hoses are clear, the issue might be internal hardware. This includes a broken drain pump, a loose drive belt, or a faulty lid switch. On top-loaders, if the machine thinks the lid is open, it will refuse to drain or spin.

How to Fix Washer Won’t Drain Issue Yourself?

Step 1: Get the Water Out

⚠️ Do this first: Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply.

There are three manual methods you can use to get the water out of your washer:

Option 1: Use the Emergency Drain Hose (Best Method)

1. Open the small access panel at the bottom front of the washer.

2. Find the small emergency drain hose.

3. Place a shallow tray/bowl under the hose.

4. Pull the hose out carefully and remove the cap/plug.

5. Drain slowly into the tray, emptying as needed until the flow stops.

6. Replace the cap, return the hose, and close the panel.

Option 2: Drain by Gravity Using the Main Drain Hose

1. Find the large corrugated drain hose (usually at the back).

2. Pull the hose out of the standpipe/laundry drain.

3. Lower the end into a bucket on the floor.

4. Let gravity drain the water. Empty the bucket as needed.

5. Put the hose back into the standpipe when finished.

Option 3: Scoop Water Out of the Drum (Last Resort)

1. If you can, tilt the washer slightly back so water stays away from the door.

2. Open the door carefully.

3. Scoop water out using a jug/ladle/cup into a bucket or sink.

4. Repeat until the drum is empty enough to continue troubleshooting.

Once the washer is empty, follow these steps in order. Most drain issues are caused by a clogged filter, a kinked hose, or a blocked standpipe.

Step 2: Check and Clean the Drain Filter

1. Locate the filter door at the bottom front of the washer.

2. Put down a towel and a shallow pan to catch spills.

3. Slowly unscrew the filter counterclockwise (lefty-loosey).

4. Remove debris (coins, nails, hair, etc.).

5. Check the impeller (small fan blades) inside the housing—make sure it spins freely and isn’t jammed.

Step 3: Inspect the Drain Hose (Kinks, Clogs, and Height)

1. Pull the washer away from the wall.

2. Straighten any kinks or sharp bends. Replace the hose if it’s crushed.

3. If you suspect a clog, disconnect the hose and flush it (outside with a garden hose works well).

4. Verify hose height: the top of the hose should be 60–100 cm from the floor.

   • Too low: water can siphon back into the washer.

   • Too high: the pump may struggle to push water out.

Step 4:  Check the Household Drain / Standpipe

Sometimes the washer is fine—the plumbing is blocked.

• If the washer drains into a sink connection, check the spigot for grease/food buildup.

• Check the standpipe: if it’s backed up, the washer can’t empty into it.

• Try a plumbing snake. (Baking soda + vinegar may help minor odor/buildup, but it won’t clear a solid clog.)

Advanced DIY: Going Under the Machine

If you have checked the filter and the hose but the machine still won't drain, you may need to look at the sump hose or the pump itself. This is for more experienced DIYers.

1. Ensure the machine is unplugged and fully drained.

2. Tip the machine: Carefully lean the washer onto its side or back (you may need a friend to help).

3. Check the sump hose: This is the thick hose that goes from the bottom of the drum to the pump. Use vice grips to undo the clips and check for trapped items like socks or heavy debris.

4. Inspect the pump: Look for physical damage like cracks. Sometimes a single small nail can get stuck in the pump and stop it from spinning. If the motor runs but nothing happens, or if the pump makes a loud grinding noise, it may be burnt out and need replacement.

What To Do If It Still Won’t Drain?

• Listen for the pump: if you hear humming but no draining, the pump may be jammed or failing.

• If the washer trips the breaker or smells hot: stop and call a technician.

How to Prevent Future Clogs? 

Maintenance is much cheaper than repair. Follow these simple tips to keep your machine running smoothly:

• Empty your pockets: This is the most important rule. Check for coins, tissues, and hairpins every single time.

• Use the right detergent: Use High-Efficiency (HE) soap and follow the dose on the bottle. Most loads only need one or two tablespoons.
  📖 Read more about: Everything You Need to Know About Washer Detergents

• Clean the filter regularly: Do not wait for a problem. Clean your pump filter every 3 to 4 months.

• Monthly cleaning cycle: Run a hot water cycle with no clothes once a month. You can add white vinegar to help break down soap buildup.

• Don't overload: Sticking to the recommended load size protects the motor and the drive belt from extra strain.

When Should You Call a Professional?

While you can fix many things yourself, some situations require an expert technician. You should call for help if:

• Persistent errors: The error code keeps coming back after you have cleaned everything.

• Electrical issues: You see sparks, smell burning, or the machine keeps tripping your circuit breaker.

• Water leaks: You notice significant leaks from the internal tub or main valves.

• Unusual noises: Loud grinding or clicking sounds often mean the motor or pump hardware has failed.

Need an inspection or repair for your washer?

👉 Need a washing machine diagnostic or repair? Call +18885085008 or book an expert with Fred’s Appliance Repair.

👉 Service areas: Charlotte, Raleigh, Durham, Cary, and Knoxville (North Carolina and Tennessee).

Your washing machine suddenly stops and starts flashing a strange code like "F21" or "OE." 

Why?

Or, what are those codes?

These codes are your machine’s way of telling you exactly what is wrong.

Most washer error codes are just warnings, and you can fix these problems yourself, like the door being locked, an unbalanced load, or low water pressure.

This guide will help you understand those cryptic signals and get your laundry day back on track—or know when to call for a repair based on the error codes.

What Are Error Codes in Washers?

Error codes are alphanumeric messages that appear on your washing machine's digital display. On older models, these might show up as a specific pattern of blinking lights or symbols. Each code acts as a diagnostic tool triggered by internal sensors when the machine detects an anomaly during a cycle.

These systems are designed to protect your washer appliance from further damage by stopping the operation when a problem occurs.

All Washer Error Codes and Their Meanings, and Fixes

Common Error Code Categories in Washers

Washing machine malfunctions generally fall into a few main categories regardless of the brand you own. Understanding these categories can help you narrow down where the problem lies.

Drainage and Pump Issues

Drainage errors are some of the most frequent problems homeowners face. They are often represented by codes like E2, F21, 5E, or OE. These codes mean the machine is taking too long to drain or cannot remove water at all. The primary cause is usually a blockage in the drain pump filter caused by lint, coins, or small items like socks. You should also check the drain hose for any kinks or verify it is installed at the correct height.

Water Supply and Inlet Problems

If your machine is not filling with water or filling too slowly, you will see codes like E1, 4E, IE, or FH. This often happens because the water supply valves are not fully open. Another common cause is a clogged inlet filter screen, which can be cleaned with a small brush. In some cases, low house water pressure or a kinked intake hose prevents the machine from detecting water.

Unbalanced Loads and Drum Movement

Codes such as E3, UE, UB, or dc signal that the drum is not balanced. This happens when heavy items like blankets or rugs clump together on one side during the spin cycle. When this occurs, the machine may stop or shake excessively to prevent damage. To fix this, simply pause the cycle and manually redistribute the laundry inside the drum.

Door Lock and Safety Failures

Safety is a priority for modern washers, so they will not start if they think the door is open. Codes like dL, dE, dL, or F01 point to door lock issues. Sometimes the fix is as simple as removing a piece of clothing caught in the seal. Other times, the mechanical latch or the electronic sensor might be faulty and require a replacement.

Heating and Temperature Errors

Temperature-related codes like HE, E5, or F03 indicate that the water is not reaching the right temperature. This is very common in front-loading machines that heat their own water. A faulty heating element or a malfunctioning thermostat is usually the culprit. You can test the heating element for continuity with a multimeter if you feel comfortable doing so.

Motor and Electrical Malfunctions

Electrical issues are signaled by codes like OC, CE, or F01. These can be caused by power surges or malfunctions in the main control board. A simple reset—unplugging the machine for 5 to 10 minutes—can sometimes clear temporary electronic glitches. If the motor itself is overloaded or jammed, you might see an LE code, suggesting you should reduce the load size.

Excessive Suds

If you see Sud or Sd, it means there is too much foam in the drum. This is almost always caused by using too much detergent or the wrong type of soap. High-efficiency (HE) machines are particularly sensitive to detergent amounts. When this happens, the machine may run a special rinse cycle to clear the foam, and you should use less soap in the future.

Brand-Specific Washing Machine Error Code Examples

While many codes are similar, different manufacturers use their own unique languages.

• Samsung: They often use 4C for water supply, DC for unbalanced loads, and UB for spinning issues. They also use 5E specifically for drainage problems.

• LG: You will frequently see IE for inlet errors and OE for drainage errors. CL is a very common non-fault code for the child lock.

• Whirlpool: Their codes usually start with "F" and "E," such as F02 for drain issues or F06 for motor faults. F01 typically signals a main control board failure.

• Bosch: They use codes like E15 to indicate a water leak has been detected in the base of the machine. E18 or F18 is their standard code for a drain pump timeout.

• Beko: These machines often show EHO for a door open error or EFO for a water filling error.

• Miele: You might see F11 for drainage difficulties or F16 if the machine detects too much detergent.

Preventive Measures to Avoid Errors

Most error codes can be prevented with a little bit of regular care. Following these simple steps will help your machine run smoothly and last longer:

1. Use the right detergent: Always use High-Efficiency (HE) detergent if your machine requires it, and never exceed the recommended amount.

2. Clean the filters: Check and clean the drain pump filter and the water inlet screens at least once a month to prevent clogs.

3. Balance your loads: Avoid washing a single heavy item alone; add a few towels to help balance the drum during the spin cycle.

4. Inspect the hoses: Regularly check the hoses at the back of the machine for any signs of wear, leaks, or sharp bends.

5. Don't overload: Stick to the load capacity recommended in your manual to avoid straining the motor and belt.

When to Call a Professional?

While over 50% of error codes can be resolved with basic DIY troubleshooting, some situations require an expert. You should call a professional technician if:

• Errors are persistent: If a code keeps coming back after you have tried the recommended fixes, there may be a deeper electrical problem.

• Internal hardware fails: Problems involving the motor, the main control board, or internal wiring are complex and can be dangerous to fix without training.

• Water leaks: Serious leaks from the internal tub or major valves can cause water damage to your home if not handled correctly.

• Under warranty: If your machine is still under warranty, you should contact the manufacturer's service center first to avoid voiding your coverage.

Need an inspection or repair for your washer?

👉 Need a washing machine diagnostic or repair? Call +18885085008 or book an expert with Fred’s Appliance Repair.

👉 Service areas: Charlotte, Raleigh, Durham, Cary, and Knoxville (North Carolina and Tennessee).

We all want our laundry to come out smelling fresh and looking spotless. It is natural to think that if your clothes are extra dirty, adding a little more soap will do a better job.

However, the truth might surprise you. Using too much detergent, or using the wrong kind, can lead to expensive repairs and ruined wardrobes.

Can Laundry Detergent Damage a Washing Machine?

Yes, laundry detergent can absolutely damage your washing machine if it is not used correctly. When you use too much detergent, it creates an overflow of suds. These bubbly suds can get into pipes and hoses, leading to clogs that prevent the machine from draining properly.

One of the most serious issues involves a part called the "drum spider" or aluminum support. Excess suds can reach this support and cause it to rust. Because the spider stabilizes the drum, a rusty or damaged one forces the motor to work much harder to compensate, which can lead to a total motor failure over time.

Additionally, detergent residue traps moisture, creating a breeding ground for mold and mildew in the outer drum and rubber gaskets, which is why many machines develop a foul, musty smell.

Can Too Much Detergent Ruin Clothes?

Ironically, using extra detergent often makes your clothes dirtier. Too many suds create a slippery layer on the fabric that prevents the friction needed to rub off stains. Instead of being washed away, dirt and bacteria get trapped in the excess soap and settle back into the fibers.

Over time, this build-up can ruin your favorite outfits in several ways:

• Stiff fabrics: Clothes may feel hard, stiff, or "greasy" to the touch.

• Discoloration: You might notice white spots, streaks, or a dingy, faded appearance caused by a film of residue.

• Skin irritation: Detergent trapped in the fibers can cause rashes, itchiness, or allergic reactions like contact dermatitis.

• Odors: Odor-causing bacteria can linger in the soap film, especially on synthetic exercise gear, making clothes smell musky even after they are "clean".

👉 Front-Loading Washing Machine Stinks? Here Are the Reasons and How to Clear Up the Smell

Can You Put Detergent in the Washing Machine?

It is perfectly okay—and necessary—to put detergent in your washing machine, but how you do it matters. Most modern machines, especially front-loaders and high-efficiency (HE) models, are designed to work with very small amounts of concentrated soap. For a standard load, you may only need one to two tablespoons of detergent.

The best practice is to use the detergent dispenser tray. The machine is programmed to flush this tray with water at the right time, mixing the soap thoroughly before it hits your clothes. If you prefer to put detergent directly into the drum, it is best to add it before the laundry. This ensures it mixes with the water immediately and prevents the concentrated dyes in some soaps from staining your clothes.

By measuring your soap carefully and choosing the right type—such as HE detergent for HE machines—you can keep your appliance running smoothly for years while ensuring your clothes stay soft and bright.

Powder vs Liquid Detergent: Which One Should You Use?

Choosing between powder and liquid detergent depends on your washer, water temperature, and stain type.

Pick by machine

• Front-load/HE washers: Use HE detergent (powder or liquid) to avoid extra suds and residue.

• Top-load washers: Either type works; HE is still a good choice for newer models.

When liquid is better

• Dissolves well in cold or hot water

• Great for pre-treating stains

• Less likely to leave residue on dark clothes

• Easier to over-pour, so measure carefully

When powder is better

• Strong for mud and heavy dirt

• Can work well in hard water (often with a booster)

• May leave white flakes in cold washes and can clump if the drawer is damp

Bottom line: Use the right dose. Too much of either can cause buildup, rinsing issues, and odors.

Does Liquid Detergent Damage Washing Machines?

Liquid detergent won’t damage your washing machine by itself. But using too much of it, or using the wrong kind like non-HE detergent in an HE washer can cause problems. Extra soap can leave buildup, create mold and bad odors, and clog the drain. Over time, this can strain the pump and motor and lead to costly damage.

What Can Ruin a Washing Machine?

While detergent is a major factor, several other habits can ruin your appliance. Overloading the machine is one of the most common mistakes; it puts extreme stress on the motor and prevents clothes from moving freely.

Neglecting regular maintenance can also lead to a breakdown. For example, washing machine hoses should be inspected monthly for cracks or leaks and replaced every three to five years to prevent water damage. Clogged lint filters and drainage holes in the door gasket can also cause the machine to malfunction or leak. Even failing to leave the door open between cycles can ruin the machine’s freshness by encouraging mold growth.

How to Tell If Your Machine Has Detergent Buildup?

Detergent buildup often shows up first as sticky residue or a musty smell in the dispenser, drum, or rubber door seal. You may also notice too many suds during the wash or soap bubbles left on the door after the cycle ends. On laundry, buildup can leave clothes stiff, scratchy, spotty, or still smelly even after washing. If buildup gets worse, the washer may run longer, make odd noises, or leak because it can’t rinse properly.

Need an inspection or repair for your washer?

If your clothes still smell, you see residue in the drum or dispenser, or your washer is leaking or running longer than normal, the problem may be more than too much detergent. It could be buildup in the drain system, a clogged filter, a worn door seal, or a pump issue. To prevent mold, poor cleaning, and costly damage, it’s best to have a pro take a look.

👉 Need a washing machine diagnostic or repair? Call +18885085008 or book an expert with Fred’s Appliance Repair.

👉Service areas: Charlotte, Raleigh, Durham, Cary, and Knoxville (North Carolina and Tennessee).